Weather and the Gardener
Although inland gales are unlikely to occur until later in the year, winds in September are generally stronger than those prevailing in the summer.
Good, carefully planned shelter from the wind is essential for successful gardening, especially in sites near the coast, on hills, or in extensive flat areas where there is little natural obstruction to the flow of wind. A hedge provides better shelter than a solid fence or wall, because it filters the wind without causing damaging down-draughts on the leeside.
Trees and Shrubs
Those in bloom in the month of September include Magnolia grandiflora and its varieties, Aralia elata, some buddleias, varieties of Callunas vulgaris, Daboecia cantabrica and ercias (heats and heathers), various forms of hardy fuschia, some hebes, hibiscus (tree hollyhock), hydrangeas, hypericums (St John's wort), potentilas (cinquefoil), Genista tinctoria (brooms) and its varieties, and certain varieties of cleamtis, jasminums, hardy passifloras (passion flowers) and polygonums (Russion vine).
Prepare for Planting
If a new shrub border is to be created, or individual specimen plants set out during the winter months, start preparing the sites now. Most trees and shrubs are relatively deep rooted and long lived, and to give them the soil conditions they require it is advisable to 'double dig' the planting area. Do this by removing the top soil, then fork into the subsoil well rotted manure, compost, or peat (especially on chalky soils), and apply bone meal at the rate of 60g per sq metre (2.1oz per sq yard). Replace the top soil. Do not use fresh manure or quick acting fertilizers, which could cause root damage.
September is a good month to transplant any trees or shrubs that require moving. Choose a warm, rather wet day if possible and retain as much soil around the roots as practical.
Roses
Prune and train ramblers and climbers, except for those which produce a second flush of flowers late in the year. With sharp secateurs, and preferably wearing gardening gloves, cut out the previous year's shoots and carefully disentangle them from this season's new growths. Cut down the old shoots to the nearest strong new growth about 45cm (18in) from the base of the plant. If there are insufficient new growths from or near ground level, leave one or two of the old shoots but prune back all the side growths to 8-10cm (3-4in).
Train the new stems of climbing roses, while they are still flexible, by tying against their support with garden twine. Bending the lowest shoots horizontally will encourage new sideshoots.
Flowers
Look over the herbaceous borders and dead head where necessary; remove and clean canes from flowered plants that are dying back; continue weeding to keep ground clean and prevent weeds seeding and carpeting the ground next year.
Bulbs
Fork out spent gladioli and acidantheras. Dry off the bulbs and foliage in a frame or greenhouse then, when the leaves are brown and shrivelled, cut off the stems an inch or so from the top of the bulb. Set the bulbs almost touching, in seed trays, and overwinter them in a frost-free shed or garage.
Vegetables
Make a sowing of lettuce outdoors to voerwinter there, leaving the crop unthinned until the spring to offset the possible effect of the winter on them. September is also the ladt opportunity to sow turnips, onions and varieties of broad-leaved and curly-leaved endive.
Potato Blight
Remove the tops of main-crop potatoes if they are affected by the blight, otherwise spores will reach the tubers by washing through the soil and they will then be damaged. Where slugs are known to be a problem early lifting of main-crop potatoes is advisable. Outdoor tomatoes can also be affected by potato blight, particularly the fruit. Application of fungicides is necessary for control.